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nor’easter

27-May-06

The path is Pista Cláudio Coutinho.

Lunch was at a feira nordestina (a fair of food/crafts/etc. from the Northeast region of Brazil).

Just got to look over my purchase from yesterday… an “Ironmen” watch. At least it’s not a counterfeit, or it’s an honest one. Should serve for the month or two I need it.

In an interesting complication for my Hong Kong plans, a check of Yodlee, which I use to keep track of my accounts, revealed that my credit card balance was about $3,000 higher than it needed to be. No transactions showed in Yodlee’s “last seven days” view for that card.

A visit to that card’s site reveals that on the 15th, when I bought my Hong Kong ticket, the travel agent decided that I would also be happy to buy two tickets for the Reddy family to go to Singapore. I guess I was celebrating too hard…

Those two transactions, unlike the real Hong Kong ticket, posted ten days after they were charged on the 25th, so they came from nowhere. I’ve already called and disputed the charges, but seeing a balance like that is a real gut check. I hope this doesn’t end up jeopardizing my HK ticket through that agent.

bureaucracy e botequims

26-May-06

Unfortunately, although I’ve been doing fun stuff lately that I haven’t remembered enough to blog about, I’ve recently been occupied with trying to make sure that my military certificate is in shape for me to be allowed to leave the country. Around the world (literally–we called the consulate in Hong Kong last night since their hours were more convenient), nobody knows for sure. It’s a slightly frightening situation.

SkypeOut (shameless commercial plug) has been valuable in talking to Hong Kong, Houston, Washington, and so on. I don’t know what it costs to directly dial HK from here but I’m pretty sure it’s more than U$ 0.04/min.

Began the day on the phone with Consulados Americanos (which if you’re Brazilian sounds like the name of an appliance chain), and continued to lunch at my god-mother’s little… uh, place. Lunchery? I’m not sure exactly what it is. Good food, though, with a sublime torta de abacaxi (pineapple) and ameixa (prune, which Brazilians pride themselves on including in almost anything sweet and a few salty things too) for dessert. It was so sublime that while I ate I spent the whole time trying to figure out the Portuguese translation of “sublime.” (still don’t know as of press time, but I haven’t asked or searched either)

Later went to the old Sta. Teresa part of the city and enjoyed a square for a few hours, which is something I hadn’t yet seen in Brazil (all over in Spain). Had a good carne asada sandwich (think BBQ, but not the liquefied sort). Sta. Teresa has some nice views of the harbor and Centro, too, including the trams running up to/down from Urca to Pão de Açucar (Sugar Loaf).

Rio is a curious place in that it has comprehensive public transport, but there are such gaps in the transportation system that some things you really can’t do (safely or at all) without a car or taxi. Sad.

News on the home front is good: I received my acceptance packet from Lingnan in Hong Kong today (via WVU’s Office of International Programs). As described to me over the (computerma-)phone, it’s… comprehensive.

As you can perhaps tell by the tone of this post, the weather has finally broken… it was a brilliant day, a little chilly in the evening by Rio’s standards but the bitter onset of winter can be blamed for the thermometer’s drop to [checks] 72 Fahr a couple minutes before midnight. If the weather is similar tomorrow we’ll head out to the… uh, I’m not sure what the name is precisely, some walk near Urca (the smaller mountain on the way up to Sugar Loaf) near the Praia Vermelha (Red Beach, not red). It’s very pretty, as I remember it… forest on the inside, waves crashing below on the outside.

Happy Saturday.

The Weather is Here

23-May-06

It’s the second of a quiet couple days here at the Brazilian HQ, devoted to the rapturous pursuit of LSAT Logic Games progress. It’s not really happening, but I got through the last sample problems in the Logic Games Bible so I’m going to go ahead and take my first practice test in months in a couple hours. If less than 75% of the LG answers are ‘D’ I’m probably in trouble.

The weekend’s sun has been replaced by… well… something. It’s been foggy and gray, and this morning some rain has finally, blessedly cleared the mugginess from the air (though not the fog). This made for an unpleasant night last night, pre-rain, but yields a decent-feeling if not decent-looking day today.

I don’t think it’s made it below 67ºF at night–not bad for late Fall. Forecast calls for some rain through at least Thursday morning but meteorologists are famously inaccurate around here.

My grandmother’s most recent dessert was unfortunately exhausted yesterday: it was a torta de ricota (yeah, ricotta, the stuff you find in good lasagna, except a little sweet) covered with goiabada (guava paste).

Sunday

21-May-06

The food’s been good, the weather’s been nice, etc. Went to the beach (Barra) on Saturday and got to have a coconut water and see some nice flowers on the way there, then got stuffed at a seafood restaurant a bit past there. That evening went to a party for someone I didn’t really remember at the Café Lamas in Flamengo, which lasted quite a while.

Today I got to sleep in and then went to lunch with family at a kilo place (you buy your food by the kilo (or fraction thereof, you greedy pig), followed by a decadent dessert session at my great-aunt’s apartment. And back here I am, finally, cracking my LSAT books for the first time and making embarrassingly little (no) progress.

A couple interesting things about Rio that I’d pretty much forgotten… the smell of alcohol near gas stations (Brazil claims this year to be completely energy independent), the neat sidewalk patterns, and the fact that a palm tree across the street looks to be taller than this apartment (on the sixth floor).

Safe in Rio

19-May-06

I’m safely in Rio after minor delays. Unfortunately the Internet is not always with me. This is a placeholder until I fill in more about the trip later, though there wasn’t anything terribly notable.

OK, I think I’ve got the Internet and such mostly fixed for tonight. Review of the trip:

Short typical delay out of Charleston, followed by wandering around the Atlanta airport for a few hours (bought a copy of the Economist and a meal from Popeye’s, they went well with each other). The flight from Atlanta to Rio (DL 61) was delayed for an hour and a half and gate-changed three or four times. Somewhere in there they switched planes. I suppose we left soon enough after the delayed time (10:05, originally scheduled 8:35).

The gate agent in charge of the flight looked frighteningly like Scotty McClellan.

The flight itself could have been worse. I had interesting conversation around me, though not always as interesting as those speaking seemed to think. It was more fun to listen to blowhard-Brazilian-hotshot-physician and blowhard-Canadian-oil-rig-dude than the chorus of babies in the center section of my flight.

The plane was a ratty old 767-300 with the communal movie screens and other atrocities of age. Cheers to Delta for springing for free headphones (I can’t believe I’m writing this), but no cheers for scheduling only one movie (King Kong) and following it up with some of the least inspiring “television” programming I’ve yet seen aloft. An ABC story on some BBQ festival reminded me of helping a friend shoot the Buckwheat Festival in Kingwood, so that was kind of fun. The one-hour-long profile/detailed sucking up to Home Depot redefined excitement, though.

Breakfast was edible, which merits a mention: a warm bagel with cream cheese and jam, a cereal bar, and a banana (yellow, not green!).

Immigration in Rio was about as strict as ever: someone looked at the picture page of my passport and handed it back to me. Customs was interesting though: traditionally, one pushes a button and a big traffic-light gizmo flashes green (go ahead) or red (stay for inspection). There has always been speculation about how random this flasher is and whether it’s controlled by agents nearby. Today I was stopped before I could press it and sent straight to the red line, where I was hassled for a bit about my laptop: no worries about randomness at all.

Here begins the food-blog that will comprise the rest of the Brazil trip.

Lunch was at my grandmother’s, with a traditionally over-the-top presentation of carrots and a cauliflower salad with garlic olive oil dressing, a torta de bacalhau (a codfish torta… mmm, codfish), and for dessert some mango, and some torta de maça (apple torta) washed down with guaraná.

Various people visited the apartment in their evening to pay their respects.

Tomorrow, I think I’m going to be dragged off to the beach before lunch and waste most of the day, even though the weather is not quite what I’d call beachy: warm but not that warm. When I landed it was 21 ºC at the airport, and it might have gotten up to 26 or so but the water should still be freezing.

Skype works from the cable modem here: that’s pretty cool.

Guess that’s all for tonight.

pre-flight check / brazil unleavened?

17-May-06

As tomorrow’s flight looms (see the shadow? or is that from the 70% chance of thunderstorms tomorrow afternoon here?) I’ve noticed Delta still doesn’t have its online check-in together for international flights. No sneaky exit row grabs for me (if Delta even allows those these days).

To my deep regret, I’ll be checking a bag. I further regret its weight: nearly 46 out of the 50 lbs. allotted by DL. Part of the problem is that it’s a heavy bag, but the rest of the problem is that I’m carrying random consumer goods (seriously, Listerine?). On the bright side, that means I can bring back lots of (light, easily packable) goodies for myself. It’s zipped and ready, as are a couple carry-on items. I just need to print some document and phone list copies for the bags and myself, and I’ll be set.

Hopefully, I’ll turn down enough of my grandmother’s food to fit in the seat on the way back. And while I’m being hopeful, it sounds like the violence in SP has died down for a bit (with the exception of the usual revenge- and excuse- killings from the police).

Assuming I get out of Charleston in time tomorrow, I should have a couple hour in the Atlanta airport and about a ten-hour flight to Rio, arriving at 7:10 a.m. local. Brazil is UTC-3 hours, one hour ahead of EDT. Unless I snag a leaky hotspot in ATL, this should be my last post from the States for a couple weeks–if you’d like anything from Brazil that’s not too painful to carry, get in touch and I’ll try to find it for you.

brazil rising

15-May-06

I seem to have picked an interesting time to visit Brazil: one where over 90 buses (at last count) have been torched in São Paulo and rumors of similar prison gang rebellions in two other states (at last count) persist and where the RJ government affirms that everything is just fine in Rio.

81 dead (15 civilians), 180 attacks, in the latest from O Globo.

I guess I have to hope that this won’t reach Rio in the next two weeks or so, since I won’t be in the tourist paradises of Rio but rather a section next to some of the favelas. And we ride the bus. Or maybe they’ll focus their attention on the rich targets; then I’ll only be in trouble when I have to get from/to the airport (passing over or through large sections of said favelas on the way).

packing heavy

15-May-06

I seem to be in what looks like an unusual situation: I need to learn to pack less efficiently.

In spring 2004, when I was panicking at the sudden realization that my non-refundable ticket to CDG in Paris would not be paired with friendly free housing on the beach, I started trying to figure out how to survive for a month with one backpack. In urban Europe, with marginal money, that isn’t hard to do: wonderful sites like Art of Travel, One Bag, and Travelite introduced me to freedom from luggage.

My trip to Brazil this week complicates matters. It seems, for some reason, to be harder to pack light when taking various items for family and a laptop. I should be able to pack it all in just over the carry-on and personal item allowance, but I don’t want to check a mostly empty bag (asking for trouble) or a mostly full bag (asking to lose my stuff).

Right now the best-sounding solution involves abusing compression straps.

Paid

12-May-06

I just paid for my ticket to Hong Kong.

Ouch.

Lingnan Acceptance, Airfare

11-May-06

Overnight I received e-mail from Lingnan telling me that I’m accepted and that my materials are on their way to Morgantown. Calling Morgantown, I was pretty much told to buy my airfare and assume I won’t get turned down for the visa (which still has its 4-6 week purgatory to go through). So I got another airfare quote–thankfully unchanged–and I’ve sent it in for approval. I’ll probably book in the next day or so.

It’s refundable less $250… could be worse. After the GEO Grant reimbursement (courtesy of the Blaney family, says my e-mail today), it won’t be that bad at all. Delta from PIT to JFK, Cathay Pacific from there to HKG. Departure Aug. 21, with a return date to be fixed once those dates are actually showing up on the reservations systems.

1*DL5125T 21AUG MO PITJFK HK1 1050A 1217P

2 CX 831L 21AUG MO JFKHKG HK1 345P 805P#1

3 CX 830L 01MAR TH HKGJFK HK1 1015A 1250P

4*DL5244U 01MAR TH JFKPIT HK1 525P 713P

Picked up my typhoid etc. at the pharmacy: they were fresh out yesterday. If I wake up in time to take it one hour before breakfast or lunch I can fit the series in before Brazil… otherwise it will have to chill in the fridge until I get back.