Urban Hiking

Today I went through passport control six times without leaving the country. Such is China.

I took the 10:15 ferry from Tuen Mun (!!!) to Zhuhai. This company wants to go to Macau, but Stanley HO doesn’t like the idea of not controlling part of each ferry company landing in Macau (in addition to the ferry terminal and the vast majority of the casinos), so regulatory approval has not been forthcoming. Instead, it makes two round-trips daily between the humble Tuen Mun Ferry Pier (spiffed up with immigration and customs facilities) and Zhuhai’s Jiuzhou harbor. In Zhuhai, I had the option of a free shuttle bus down to Gongbei, at the border with Macau. Too easy, and I wanted to see the one big attraction of Zhuhai: the fisher girl. There’s a legend, go look it up if you’re interested.

3786

So, I walked around (for about an hour) and up the coast until I found it. Took pictures, walked back… all the way down to Gongbei, maybe another two or three hours there. In Gongbei, I was able to muddle through ordering lunch in Mandarin. Gongbei is the Lo Wu Commercial Center equivalent in Zhuhai, but much more underground and much less seedy. I have friends who would have wept to see so many shoes in one place.

I walked over to Macau (this took maybe 30 or 45 minutes with all the standing in line for passport controls) and… kept walking. I actually walked all the way from the border to the central square, Lgo. do Senado, which is south of center. I’m not sure of the distance, but I walked a lot longer since I wasn’t navigating very well. There I broke down and took a bus down to the tip of Coloane where I stuffed myself at the semi-famous Fernando’s.

3816

Took the bus back onto the peninsula, walked another hour or so to the ferry terminal… overall, I probably gained weight. Well worth it.

Macao o segundo

I’m back in Tuen Mun after a second crack at Macau this weekend. I traveled with a group of seven others, which is a bit large for my taste but ended up working out decently enough.

This time I wasn’t miserable from unexplained sudden blistering on my feet, so I was able to enjoy everything more. We took the ferry from Sheung Wan on Hong Kong Island this time, which is actually about as close (in transit time) as the much (physically) closer TST China ferry pier. We stayed at the Sun Sun Best Western, fairly close to Largo do Senado (the central square)—but everything in Macau is pretty close to everything else.

Since it was the first trip to Macau for many in the group, we didn’t make it to the islands. Maybe next time. Or the time after that.

We saw the usual sights. New ones for me included a long walk up and around the Guia hill/fortress/lighthouse complex, the Lou Lim Ioc (sp?) gardens, walking in the Leal Senado, and generally a lot of walking around the more central and eastern parts of the peninsula. We largely neglected the north and south, and stayed more or less in the west (which is pretty boring).

Claiming a bed in this Best Western was a bad idea as I was destroyed by what seemed to be a bed full of some creature. My panicked laundry session and careful isolation on returning seems to have worked, but I’ll keep my fingers crossed. Last night I had a set of merged welts from bites almost entirely covering my right bicep, but the magic of Mopiko has me looking a little less freakish today.

Once again the walking around (unencumbered by blisters) was my favorite part, or would have been if it weren’t for the food. For Saturday’s lunch we tried a Portuguese place called Boa Mesa near L. do Sen., which seemed to be well-received by the group. For dinner we found a semi-Shanghainese place near the casinos where I tried the famous xiao long bao, or soup dumplings. I had the crabmeat version. Look them up, they’re fun—a literal flavor explosion. After going to Portuguese Mass at the cathedral (one of the least impressive I’ve seen, but hey, it’s in China) and getting ice cream, Sunday’s lunch was at the Café Chocolà on the same alley (Travessa do São Domingo, maybe?), a café pretending to be Italian but with obvious Portuguese food. I had a set lunch of a mushroom torte with soup (cream and vegetable) and salad (boring, but with plenty of azeite [olive oil]), a papaya–sweet lime (tasted a bit like Key lime) shake, and pigged out with a guardanapo (literally, napkin… or a rocambole (sp?) to Brazilians) afterward. Most of the others had very reasonably priced and pretty good-looking baguettes.

I’ve now been to a casino (a couple) for the first time in my life. We went in both the Wynn and the Lisboa on Saturday night. It’s easy to see why the Stanley Ho/STDM monopoly (e.g. the Lisboa) is losing business. Popular games (for people with more money than I) are baccarat and sik-bo (big-little, a Chinese dice game that has gameplay and odds similar to a wheel-less roulette). I got tremendously lucky on a ten-cent slot machine (ten HK cents… heh) and wound up pulling myself out of the red and cashing out 30 HKD in the black. Very, very lucky. I’m not trying that again any time soon.

1936

I think that covers most of the weekend. Today, I have a trip in the works to Wan Chai to get my Vietnamese visa, but first I’m going to English Corner where there is such a thing as a free lunch.

About Macau

I guess a full-length bloviation on Macau won’t be coming any time soon. Brief notes, instead, follow:

I suffered four passport stamps for the journey, including a re-stamping of the half-page Hong Kong student residency stamp. I hope that doesn’t happen every time I come back in but I think it does. Ouch.

It was very cool to see mosaic sidewalks and Portuguese signage everywhere. The Macanese may be better than Hong Kong people at making sure the second-language version is available, though fewer actually speak Portuguese. This may not be as cool if you não fala Português, but it was cool for me.

Prices are quite touristy, at least on the Peninsula, even leaving aside the inconvenience of Patacas (pegged slightly under the HKD but virtually unconvertible outside of the MSAR). Egg tarts for 6 MOP? Come on.

Stanley Ho’s ailing monopoly even owns the ferry terminal. That’s pathetic. There’s a post on dysfunctional SAR politics (never mind the US, I don’t even want to read the news now) coming some time.

Many colonial buildings were painted in garish colors. Tourist guides seem to think this is a feature. I am unconvinced.

The Portuguese and Brazilian food selection is very good, though not very well priced (again).

I really didn’t get much out of the visit. I’ve heard that the islands (well, they were islands until being connected by the “Cotai” reclamation) of Taipa and Coloane are beautiful but I didn’t have the time or motivation to see them. If they are they might balance out the peninsula.

Zhuhai could be cool—I may never know since I’d have to burn a PRC visa entry to find out. Maybe as part of a longer Southern Mainland trip.

If you like to gamble I guess you could have a good time—I didn’t even look as I didn’t feel like shelling out for a locker to hold my camera and bag.