l’auberge espagnole

My birthday, for lack of a more articulate word, sucked. The draconian imposition of siesta hours is cute at first but when one has a night train to catch when restaurants are opening and cannot get a decent meal… rrgh. Oh yeah, that and the ketchup. The Alhambra was nice again, of course. We did make it in after maybe an hour queue.

We have been shifted from a decently-located hostel kind of near the center of the city (Barcelona, that is) to a couple beds in a nice flat near the Sagrada Familia (and therefore not close to much of anything else, if you have ever been here). We are getting the most out of our transport 10-packs and shoe leather.

The unexpected wonder of the apartment is that it has a grocery across the street and a washing machine within. This is good news, and I am now mercifully ketchup-free. I forgot to try washing the pair of pants that got chocolate on it in Brussels, but there is always tonight.

Barcelona is fantastic, as always. I finally made it to Park Guell and got my obligatory lizard picture. We have done all the typical stuff (Ramblas etc.) but today we wandered around Montjuïc and stumbled into the 1992 Olympic campus, which was pretty neat. The stadium was open, making it about 5000x cooler than Berlin’s.

My travelmate has gotten to the beach a couple times which she has enjoyed, although this last visit left me in a mood similar to hers after an art museum… for various reasons I am a bit of an anti-beach character. Hopefully nothing was taken too personally and we will get over it over dinner (and a Brazilian victory over France would be nice too).

It would also make me incurably smug in Paris tomorrow afternoon. I can’t wait.

no Córdoba after all

The Sevilla night bus was stinky and miserable as could be expected, and then we got kicked out of the bus station for 15 minutes because it wasn’t open yet… insult added to injury. After the city woke up I introduced Alana to chocolate con churros and we found our hostal, miraculously equipped with a full ensuite. enSWEET. Much laundry followed, and then some sleep, and then the Cathedral and Alcázar (of which gardens I waxed lyrical on my last trip). And then a LOT of sleep… it was time to decompress a little.

After about 15 hours of sleep last night, A. decided that she did not want to pay the 8 euro for the Mezquita in Córdoba. Personally I think it’s worth it once, so it works out for me since I have seen it. She is missing out though. As a result we took a bus straight from Sevilla to Granada.

So here we are in Granada, ready to queue for hot hours at the crack of dawn tomorrow to try to get into the Alhambra–by the time I thought of trying to reserve it online it was too late, but they save some tickets for the day of entry. We went up to the Mirador de San Nicolás in the Albaicín (old Arab quarter) for a stunning view of the Alhambra (with Sierra Nevada backdrop) and then somehow came down in a very different direction. We seem to be alive somehow.

That trip marks our last significant bus travel (except for the hike out to BVA near Paris) and the last travel that had not been pre-booked.

Food is cheap here and so is the Net–both good things.